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Q.
What does an induction kit do? A. An induction kits improves the airflow
into your engine. The primary aim of any performance modification
is to get more fuel and air into your engine. The induction
kit does this by providing a more direct route for the
air, into the inlet manifold. Also, a high quality cotton
gauze filter allows more air through. Usually this is
from a better position at the front of the car to take
advantage of the cooler, denser airflow.
Q. Do induction kits give more power? A. Yes, induction kits do work. They are
particularly good when combined with other modifications
such as a high performance exhaust or gas flowed head
and cam. Don't expect miracles when fitted on their own,
but you will see more power.
Q. Are there any other benefits in fitting
an induction kit, besides more power? A. Yes, the kit removes
the need for the standard air box and pipework, giving
a neater underbonnet look. It also makes servicing and
maintenance easier, as there is less in the way. Also,
the cotton gauze filters such as Green and K&N are
cleanable for an indefinite life.
Q. Will there be any problems
if I fit an induction kit? A. No, but you need to
be aware that the engine will be noisier under acceleration.
This is because the manufacturers installation is removed
and much of this is designed to reduce noise and resonance.
However, you will have the benefit of a much sportier
induction sound - ideal for the car enthusiast.
Q. Can I fit an induction kit
myself? A. Yes, induction kits
are easy to fit and always come with full instructions.
Q. If I don't want to remove the
manufacturers system, are there any alternatives? A. Yes, you can fit a
high performance replacement filter. These improve air
flow through their better quality cotton gauze construction.
Q. Why don't I just run without
an air filter for maximum power? A. Never be tempted to
run without filters. Your engine will suck in dust and
dirt particles which will wear away the mechanical components
very quickly. That's if you are lucky enough not to suck
in a stone which will cause immediate engine failure.
Good quality filters do not significantly reduce airflow
so there is no excuse for not running an air filter -
even on a race car.
Engine Conversions
Q. I have seen the
205 with an Mi16 engine installed. What is involved? A. This conversion can
be completed by any competent mechanic. There are several
main areas to consider:
1. The base car - start with a GTi model as this has the
easiest specification to work with. If you start with
a non-GTi model you will have a non-injection wiring loom,
inadequate front suspension (the design is different and
you will need to swap to a GTi sub-frame assembly to change
this) and narrow wheel arches. You will also have fewer
engine ancillaries that can be re-used. The GTi suspension
and braking capabilities are easily able to cope with
the 16v power.
2. The donor 16v engine - make sure you buy an engine
with all the ancillaries, plumbing, wiring, ECU and other
control components you need. These are costly to source
separately. Your requirements will depend on how you intend
to run the engine (see below). Unless you know the engine
history, it is worth at least fitting a new set of valve
stem seals, head gasket and cam belt. Also fit a new clutch
while the gearbox is off.
3. Fitting the engine - drop the old engine out under
the car. Mate the 16v to the 205 gearbox. Use a 1600 gearbox
for lower ratios, 1900 for higher top speed and more relaxed
motorway work. Note that the 1600 has different driveshafts
and hubs to the 1900, so swapping gearboxes means swapping
these as well. Lift the 16v up into the engine bay. The
engine mounts are the same.
4. The exhaust manifold - the Mi16 exhaust manifold hits
the 205 bulkhead. You can cut and fold back the bulkhead
lip and re-shape the bulkhead behind the manifold to relieve
this. You can also shorten the bottom engine mount, but
consider this a temporary fix as it can cause oil starvation
problems under heavy cornering. For the best job and better
power, buy a bespoke manifold or have one made up.
5. The radiator - you will need to make up some brackets
to drop the radiator away from the 16v inlet manifold,
if you run the engine on its standard injection. If you
run sidedraught carbs, there is no need to do this. You
can buy (or make) a shorter 16v inlet manifold to save
moving the radiator - the choice is yours and based on
economics.
6. The plumbing - you will need to use a combination of
205 and Mi16 coolant hoses to connect everything up, including
the Mi16 water cooled oil cooler (you could use the 205
1900 air cooled oil cooler) and 205 header tank.
7. The wiring - there are two ways to approach this. Firstly,
you can retain the 205 engine loom but you will need a
distributor conversion plate to use the 205 distributor.
There are several disadvantages with this: you have to
buy a conversion plate; you are running with the 8v ECU
and therefore the 8v fueling and ignition settings and
you have to have the rev limiter disabled in the 8v ECU
as it cuts in before maximum power from the 16v engine!
My preferred method is to use the 16v engine loom and
Motronic 4.1 ECU. This requires an amount of wiring in,
but you end up with a very professional conversion, using
all the original Mi16 ancillaries and control systems.
8. Enjoy harassing innocent drivers of more exotic machinery!
Chips and ECU Modifications
Q. How does a chip
change work? A. Your cars engine is
controlled by electronics. The electronic control unit
(ECU) takes signals from the engine through sensors, then
decides what ignition advance and fueling to provide,
depending on load (throttle) speed (rpm) and various other
parameters such as temperature.
The manufacturer will have spent millions developing the
car, ECU included and you can bet that it is pretty well
sorted as standard. However, it will be set up for a compromise
between performance and economy. By swapping the chip
for one with different parameters ie. more fuel and different
ignition advance, the idea is that you can gain some performance.
Q. Does chipping my car actually work? A. The short answer to
this is not usually. Normally the manufacturer has things
pretty well sorted from the start. There are some exceptions,
such as the Mi16 which runs a bit lean in the mid-range
as standard. This was for better fuel economy for the
fleet market. You can remove some flat spots with a 'SuperChip',
but don't expect miracles! You will get better value for
money and better results by modifying the traditional
way: induction kit and exhaust; gas flowed head and cam.
In addition, spend the money first on making sure your
engine components are in good condition: plugs, leads,
distributor cap and arm etc.
Q. I have heard of the 'UniChip'.
Is this the same as chipping? A. No, don't confuse this with chipping.
The UniChip sits piggy back on your existing ECU and can
be fully programmed by a rolling road operator. It is
ideal when you have had some modifications to your engine,
which go beyond the capabilities of your existing ECU.
The UniChip can be programmed to provide exactly the fueling
and ignition advance that your new modifications need
- with superb results.
Engine - General
Q. I have a '98 1.9 Turbo Diesel Pug 306 which has
developed a new whistle. The problem is most apparent
when the engine is idling, although it does exist when
on the move as well, and increases in frequency as speed/revs
increase. The noise is not there all the time, and will
occasionally disappear, although it does seem fairly persistent
now. My local Pug garage are at a loss. A. This could be many things, from a noisy alternator
bearing to a leak in the induction system. In this case,
it turned out to be a noisy water pump.
Q. My engine runs very badly on tickover.
What causes this? A. There are many causes of a lumpy tickover and
it is a case of running through the most likely in a methodical
way until the problem is cured:
1. Ensure that all of your ignition components are in
good condition: spark plugs; distributor cap; HT leads
etc.
2. Check the breather system hoses for leaks or blockages.
Check the dip stick seal is a tight fit in the tube. Check
the seal on the oil filler cap.
3. Check the idle correction and mixture (or have a garage
check this for you).
4. If the problem still persists, you will need to have
the ignition/electronic control units checked by a garage.
Q. My 405 1905cc petrol engine smokes
badly from the exhaust (black smoke), especially when
cold. What is likely to be the cause of this?
A. The most common cause of smoke from this engine (and
also 1600cc as fitted to 205 GTi, 309 among others) is
worn valve stem oil seals. These stop oil from the cylinder
head passing down the valve guides and into the combustion
chamber. When they wear and/or perish, oil can pass them
and is then burned with the combustion mixture, causing
black smoke. The seals are only about 80p each, but the
job entails removing the cylinder head for a rebuild.
